Traveling Solo to Mindanao

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Nikka Sarthou
Photos by: Nahara Gandamra Biruar

“It’s not safe to travel to Mindanao.”

That’s the general impression of most people about this particular subject matter, especially those who are not really familiar with the Philippines and just hear about it through the news. It actually didn’t occur to me to feel some apprehension when I first traveled to Mindanao alone. It was probably because I went to tourist-friendly Cagayan de Oro (CDO) and not to the other more infamous areas of the region 

Even if the Philippines is branded as one of the top countries in the world where journalists are not safe (read: Maguindanao massacre), I did not hesitate at all when I had to go to CDO for work. But since it was a business trip, everything was arranged for me—from airport transfers to accommodations, and even lunch meetings. I was checked in at a hotel in the city center and near one of the major malls. The hotel was also in the same building where I had to do my research and interviews. I did not have to go far for anything at all!

Major cities like CDO, Davao and Cotabato are generally safe. When traveling to new places, just make sure to research beforehand. Find out more about the people, their customs, and other necessary information.

Ana Santos, a journalist who writes about Philippine armed conflict, has experienced traveling to Mindanao for an assignment. She went to Cotabato and its outer provinces like Datu Piang, as well as Marawi in Lanao del Norte, to investigate women and children in conflict, particularly those who were in affected areas and displacement camps. In Datu Piang, she stayed with a priest; while in Marawi, her former college classmate who resides there welcomed her with open arms. Whenever she had to do fieldwork, her classmate’s male cousins would always accompany her wherever she would go.

The experience is really different when visiting places that are in the outskirts of major cities. When planning to travel in such areas, take note of the following tips:

• Most of the population is Muslim. Be aware that there are certain times of the day for prayer and respect it.
• Remember that eating pork is not allowed in Muslim religion. Stick to other types of meat during mealtimes.
• Dress appropriately. Avoid wearing shorts and plunging necklines. Short-sleeved shirts are fine but it would be better to bring a light long-sleeved jacket with you at all times.
• Establish connections with local authorities (e.g. tourism office, AFP, PNP) that can inform you of the local security situation.
• Most of the people can speak English or Tagalog. but it would be best if you know someone there who can speak the local dialect and translate for you.
• Refrain from traveling at night, as much as possible.
• You might encounter checkpoints when going to certain destinations so be prepared to show your belongings, if necessary. It’s also important that you label your luggage for identification.

According to Ana, “[Traveling to Mindanao is] generally safe, but in such places, I guess probability of conflict is just higher.” 

As with traveling to a new place, it would really be ideal if you have contacts in the area that can show you around and give insider tips.

For a worry-free trip, make sure to bring the following with you when you travel to this side of the Philippines:

• Shawl – It’s a versatile piece of clothing that you can use to cover your head, face or whatever body part, especially when you’re riding the habal-habal (local motorcycle), or when you’re feeling cold in an air-conditioned vehicle.
• Flashlight – This tool will come in handy during nighttime and particularly in rural areas where electricity is a scarce resource.
• Loose change – As much as possible, always carry small bills or coins with you. This is useful when you ride the commuter buses so you can pay the exact fare. You might also need those coins to pay for the use of comfort rooms or to give to preachers.
• Water bottle – Keep hydrated during your trip by bringing a bottle of water with you.

Depending on what kind of traveler you are, you might need to bring the following necessities: medicine for motion sickness, motion sickness bag, and mint candies. It would also make your experience more comfortable if you have alcohol/hand sanitizer or hanky/tissue paper with you at all times. But the most important thing to have with you is your presence of mind. Do remember that the next time you book a trip to Mindanao, or anywhere else for that matter.